The Chronicle
Latest dispatches
9 results across all types
- news
Windswept Elegance: Surrau and the Modern Voice of Sardinia
The Wining Hour: Few wine regions capture the rugged beauty of the Mediterranean quite like Sardinia. Shaped by centuries of seafaring cultures, ancient traditions, and dramatic landscapes, the island has emerged as one of Italy’s most compelling wine destinations. Among its leading producers, Vigne Surrau has become a standard-bearer for modern Sardinian winemaking, crafting wines that honor indigenous varieties while expressing the unique character of Gallura. Located near the glamorous Costa Smeralda in northeastern Sardinia, Surrau sits in the heart of Gallura, a region renowned for its granite soils, constant maritime winds, and sun-drenched vineyards. Here, the landscape is both wild and beautiful. Rolling hills dotted with cork oak forests and Mediterranean scrub descend toward the turquoise waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, creating an environment where vines thrive under the influence of both sun and sea. Founded in the early 2000s, Surrau was born from a vision to showcase Sardin
- news
Bolgheri Refined: The Contemporary Precision of Argentiera
The Wining Hour: In a region celebrated for powerful Super Tuscans and internationally acclaimed Bordeaux blends, Tenuta Argentiera has quietly forged a distinctive identity of its own. Situated at the southern edge of Bolgheri, the estate has become synonymous with a style that marries depth and concentration with remarkable precision and elegance. It is a house that captures the modern spirit of Bolgheri, as wines are shaped not by excess, but by balance, detail, and a profound sense of place. I recently joined a virtual tasting hosted by Argentiera and led by winemaker Nicolò Carrara, gaining deeper insight into the winery’s philosophy while sampling the newest vintages. Since its establishment and subsequent development in the early 2000s, Argentiera has focused on expressing terroir through meticulous viticulture and minimal intervention. In fact, this is Bolgheri through a contemporary lens: wines that speak eloquently of their coastal origins while maintaining a polished, sophis
- news
Returning to Casanova di Neri-A Renewed Look at One of Montalcino’s Defining Estates
The Wining Hour: Some wineries leave a lasting impression long after the final sip. Casanova di Neri is one of them, as this producer has helped define the modern identity of Brunello while preserving its deep cultural roots. I first visited the estate nearly 10 years ago, and while the wines were memorable, it was the setting itself that lingered in my mind—a landscape of rolling hills, vineyards stretching toward the horizon, and a palpable sense of purpose. Returning recently, I found much had changed and yet everything felt remarkably familiar. Since it was founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri, the estate remains deeply rooted in the same vision that has guided it —to express the unique character of Montalcino through exceptional Sangiovese. Located on the eastern side of Montalcino in southern Tuscany, Casanova di Neri occupies a privileged position among some of the region’s most distinctive vineyard sites. Over the decades, the Neri family has assembled a collection of vineyards tha
- news
Sallier de la Tour: A Historic Sicilian Estate Committed to Sustainability
The Wining Hour: History of the Estate Sallier de La Tour, home to the La Monaca winery, near Palermo, Sicily, traces its origins to 1909. The history is most fascinating. Its story intertwined with another influential Sicilian wine family in 1956, when Paolo Sallier de La Tour married Costanza Tasca d’Almerita. The winery historically cultivated Sicilia’s native grape varieties, as well as carefully selected international grapes. However, Filiberto, Paolo’s son, later steered the estate toward exploring the potential of Syrah in the island’s unique terroir. In 2008, the estate became part of the broader holdings of the historic Tasca d’Almerita family, which took stewardship of the property. Since then, the estate has balanced noble heritage with modern winemaking and sustainability, honoring both land and legacy. Terroir Tenuta Sallier de la Tour is within the Monreale DOC in northwest Sicily, a landscape where Mediterranean sun, sea breezes, and varied soil types give grapes a uniqu
- news
From Breganze with Precision: The Wines of Maculan
The Wining Hour: In the hills of Breganze, in Italy’s Veneto region, Maculan has built a reputation rooted in precision, restraint, and deep respect for place. The winery’s story began in 1947, when Giovanni Maculan founded the estate with a focus on quality viticulture in a region better known at the time for quantity. Over the decades, the family transformed the estate into one of Veneto’s most respected producers, guided today by a philosophy that favors clarity of fruit, thoughtful blending, and wines that reflect both tradition and modern refinement. All of Maculan’s vineyards are located in the province of Vicenza, in the Breganze DOC zone. Breganze’s rolling landscape, marked by volcanic and limestone influences, provides structure and freshness. The climate is characterized by pronounced diurnal shifts and balances warm summers with cooling breezes descending from the nearby foothills. This variation allows the grapes to ripen fully while retaining acidity. This natural equilib
- news
Aia Vecchia: A Modern Voice Defining Coastal Tuscany
The Wining Hour: Founded by the Pellegrini family in the mid-1990’s, Aia Vecchia is a family-owned Tuscan estate that has a strong reputation for producing expressive, terroir-driven wines from Italy’s coastal regions. Today, Aia Vecchia is managed by Elia Pellegrini, 4th generation owner and vintner. The estate takes its name from an old building on their property, symbolizing both heritage and place. With roughly 112 acres of vineyards split between Bolgheri and Maremma, the estate honors the region’s deep agricultural tradition with a modern, detail-focused approach to viticulture and winemaking, while capturing the essence of Tuscany’s maritime landscapes. Along with Aia Vecchia’s agronomist, Daniel Schuster, and the expertise of Hungarian winemaker, Tibor Gal, the Pellegrinis have been crafting beautiful, structured Bordeaux grape varieties primarily in two Tuscan zones: Bolgheri and Maremma. Coastal Warmth, Marine Influence and Tuscany Structure Bolgheri Bolgheri, known for its B
- news
Brunello with Soul: Patrizia Cencioni’s Iconic Wines from Montalcino
The Wining Hour: At this year’s Benvenuto Brunello event, I had the opportunity to taste the highly anticipated 2021 vintage ahead of its official release—an early glimpse into what is already being discussed as a remarkable year for Montalcino. Among the many compelling wines, reconnecting with the portfolio of Azienda Agricola Patrizia Cencioni felt particularly meaningful, especially the standout Ofelio Brunello di Montalcino, which once again commanded attention for its depth and composure. Having visited the estate some time ago, I realized I never fully shared that experience. This recent tasting served as the perfect catalyst to revisit the winery’s story and finally bring that long-overdue reflection to light. Visiting Patrizia Cencioni When I visited the Azienda Agricola Patrizia Cencioni estate in southeastern Montalcino, I learned about a family story that is deeply intertwined with the history of Brunello itself. Though she officially founded her estate in 1989, her roots i
- news
Attitude and Altitude: Unearthing the Terroir of Doña Paula
The Wining Hour: Bodega Doña Paula, in Mendoza, stands out not for flash, but for focus. Founded in 1997 in Mendoza, the winery’s philosophy is rigorously simple: to craft wines that speak clearly of place, wines that are true expressions of the high-altitude terroir of Argentina. Today, the winery is recognized as a pioneer in the study of Mendoza’s micro-terroirs, with a deep commitment to mapping soils, altitudes, and climates across its estate vineyards. The result is wines that capture the essence of Argentina’s high-altitude terroirs with precision and elegance. Vineyards Elevation and Soils Farming exclusively from its own vineyards, Doña Paula’s vineyards are positioned in some of Mendoza’s most coveted and demanding regions, notably the Uco Valley and Lujan de Cuyo. Their high altitude vineyard sites, Ugarteche (1000 mt), Los Indios/El Cepillo (1,100 mt) and Gualtallary (1,350 mt), all very high above sea level, enjoy Mendoza’s hallmark climate—sunny days, cool nights, and min
- news
Elevating the Art of Prosecco at Bellenda Winery
The Wining Hour: Since the mid 1980’s, Bellenda Winery has been crafting elegant sparkling wines in the scenic Carpesica hills of Treviso. Founded by the Cosmo family, the estate reflects their shared passion for the land and the region’s signature grape, Glera. Their vineyards stretch across the prestigious Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG zone, a UNESCO-listed area known for producing some of the finest expressions of Prosecco. We had the pleasure of engaging in a virtual tasting with Umberto Cosmo and being transported to the winery. Bellenda’s Terroir Bellenda’s vineyards lie on the glacial slopes of Carpesica, where cool nights and warm days help the grapes retain vibrant acidity. The mineral-rich soils, composed of limestone, clay and glacial deposits, and steep terrain produce wines that are bright, structured, and full of character. As one of the designated Rive zones of Valdobbiadene, Carpesica offers a distinct microclimate that gives Bellenda’s wines their signature freshness a