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#2017
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- news
Cats ears
A laundry list of recent bottles. Dreaming of White Burgundy . Giaconda Chardonnay 2023 . Pale. 13.5% Emphatic but fine; power with grace. Almond meal, fabric softener and something struck. Compelling. Terrific poise and grip. No half measures or doubt here. A+ The 2016 tasting note. 2019 Dexter Chardonnay . Mornington. A poised and polished example. Confident, tanned, but perhaps too conformist. Ripe. Flinty and essence like. Globular texture. Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2021 . A very sharp wine. Maybe the best Bindi I’ve had in recent (5 years) time. It must be near its peak. . . Juicy, bright, cordite and flint, stone fruit. Super tight, lean, long. Sadly my last bottle. . . Before . A+ Houghton EV 37 Old Vine Chenin blanc 2023 . With my blind tasting blinkers on, I feel no shame in calling this a Chardonnay. Whole bunches, wild yeast, old barrel fermentation, battonage. . . An excellent nod and wink to Jack Mann and his 1937 creation - the Houghton
by noreply@blogger.com (Edward)0 views200220092011201720192021 - news
December notes
A trio of Chardonnay to open. 2017 Flame Tree SRS Chardonnay . Mature and golden. Pineapple crunch, medium, starting to unknot. 2020 Vasse Felix Heytsbury . Tighter and more complex. Longer and quieter (and colder) initially. Essence like. Restraint and serious poise. Excellent . 2018 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay . 13.5%. Viscous and thick, essence like and powerful. Showy and bold. The nose is expressive, all peach and blossom. Even on day two it’s pretty and still well shaped. By a small fraction, I preferred the Heytsbury. A Pinot. Oakridge Aqueduct Block Henk Vineyard Pinot noir 2023. Yarra Valley . Medium red, bright and primary. Cherry and spice, relatively simple and direct, heavy. My rusty palate incorrectly called this a Tasmanian. For the bird fanciers. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2009 . 13.5%. Pauillac. A suitcase wine, and the fanciest red bottle of the season. Tasted blind the early money consensus call proved mostly correct
by noreply@blogger.com (Edward)22 views199620092017201820202023 - news
December bottles
Dhillon Riesling 2024. A Bindi wine using non estate Macedon fruit from the Glenhope vineyard. The back label mentions - interesting grapes from interesting vineyards for, hopefully, interesting people. . . Wild yeast, old barrels, time of lees. A quieter than expected nose, pear as much as citrus, green bean. Different from the usual Oz Riesling - as well as the feel of pebbles and the taste of apricots - there’s more flesh and creaminess in the mouth . The Clare Valley 2021 Jim Barry ‘The Florita’ is much more typical - bath salts, a puff of lime; bone dry, phenolic ++, a slightly salty edge . Kumeu River Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2022. 13%. Quite above and apart from most. A complex and compelling nose - pear and citrus, white florals, a hint of spice (ginger and soft oak), subtle layers. . . Rich and refined and long in the mouth - it’s tight, intense, pulsing with phenolic grip and citrus pith. . . I wrote - cf orange wine, but clean. . . Which is to say - the t
by noreply@blogger.com (Edward)23 views200120172021202220232024