The Chronicle
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Crushing Old Models
By Patty Mamula Wine sales are declining nationwide. However, a promising solution for boosting wine sales and attracting new, especially younger, consumers has emerged. Wineries offering innovative wine club options are finding success. After attending a session on this topic at the recent Oregon Wine Symposium, I spoke with the panelists about creative wine clubs. “When you understand your customers, you sell more wine,” stated Andrew Kamphuis, president of Commerce7, a winery commerce platform. “Our software enhances the customer experience. Twenty years ago, if you made good wine, people visited your winery. Now, all Oregon wine is good. People visit for the experience.” Jen Cossey, general manager of Amity’s Brooks Wine, noted, “We are at an opportunistic point.” After joining Brooks in mid-2024, she observed, “The wine industry is undergoing rapid changes in buyer behavior and wine club participation. These shifts can be related to
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Uncorked Truth
By Aakanksha Agarwal You see these clichéd phrases everywhere. On mugs, Etsy merchandise and Instagram captions with thousands of likes: “Mommy needs wine.” “Wine because kids.” They read as humorous, but the premise is clear: parenting is exhausting, and wine is the relief. This idea– so familiar– is rarely questioned. But, in Oregon, for those building businesses around wine, the reality is far more specific. The “wine mom” trope didn’t originate from vineyards or tasting rooms. It began in social media parenting culture, where humor is quick and repeatable. Studies of social media and popular media have found “wine mom” culture frequently presents alcohol as a coping mechanism for the pressures of parenting while reinforcing simplified expectations of motherhood and normalizing drinking behaviors. At the same time, researchers note these jokes also function as a form of connection– mothers sharing experie
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Marking the Trail
By Paula Bandy The Applegate Valley mirrors the winding Applegate River, a tributary of the Rogue, flowing through Southern Oregon’s Siskiyou Mountains. Stretching roughly 50 miles from the California border to its confluence near Grants Pass, the Valley moves in gentle bends– oak-studded hills give way to vineyard rows, forested spaces open to pasture land. Long before the vines, this corridor was shaped by water, wildlife and the presence of Indigenous people; later, by gold seekers tracing the river upstream. Today, the Applegate Valley American Viticultural Area, or AVA, is where elevation, aspect and the river’s moderating influence create one of Oregon’s most diverse growing environments. The idea for new, unified signage began not with a formal directive, but during a membership brainstorming meeting of the Applegate Valley Vintners. “Our vision? Every winery would have the same sign,” recalls Rachael Martin, founder and winemaker of Red Lily
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My “Sideways” Moment
By Michele Francisco, OWP Editor Like it or not, “Sideways” wildly increased the popularity of Pinot Noir. Nearly 22 years later, Oregon’s most-planted variety continues riding the swell generated by the movie. I was living in Santa Barbara when it debuted at the Riviera Theatre, the town’s “artsy” movie house that screened alternative– and, often, low-budget– productions. While I adored the film, I think it was because I recognized all the locations. I didn’t drink much wine back then. “Sideways” stayed with me as my passion for wine grew over time. Beginning in the eastern, warmer stretches of Santa Barbara County’s Santa Ynez Valley, I started exploring the region’s wines. As my palate developed, I began drinking Pinot Noir from the cooler western Sta. Rita Hills, a designated growing region with distinct maritime breezes and lingering fog. One of the film’s main characters, Miles Raymond, played by
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Pinot’s Other Kid
By Michele Francisco There’s no question Pinot Noir has been quite prolific over the centuries. Coupled with Gouais Blanc, the pair has produced more than 20 unique grape varieties. Their most popular child here in Oregon is Chardonnay, but other siblings are starting to gain traction. One of them, Aligoté, is quietly finding a loyal following with both winegrowers and wine lovers. As Burgundy’s second-most-planted white grape, Aligoté has long been appreciated by the French for its citrusy, mineral-driven wines. The inaugural Aligoté Affair, hosted by Balsall Creek on Saturday, May 2, presents the ideal opportunity to sample the variety. A dozen Oregon producers will gather to share their interpretations of the high-acid grape. Much like its parent Pinot Noir, Aligoté reflects a certain terroir transparency. As for Aligoté’s Oregonian characteristics, expect citrus in the form of quince, kumquat, tangerine and kaffir lime. White pea
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Elevated Status
By Greg Norton A “nested AVA” might sound like something sought by a birdwatcher. In the U.S., the term refers to American Viticultural Areas, some within larger winegrowing appellations. Designated in July 2006, the Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley’s fifth nested AVA, celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. SIZE MATTERS After the Willamette Valley AVA was established in 1983, wineries could more accurately indicate a wine’s origin. “Nobody had ever heard of the Willamette Valley at that point,” recalled Pat Dudley, Bethel Heights Vineyard co-founder and wife of Eola-Amity Hills petitioner Ted Casteel. “We were all busy trying to distinguish it from Oregon as an appellation.” The Willamette Valley AVA covers 3.5 million acres spanning over 100 miles from north to south. Soon after the turn of the 21st century, it became obvious more precise geographical distinctions were needed. “It’s really big,” Dudley continued,
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Tango and Terroir
By Paula Bandy Malbec has always carried a sense of movement. Born in Southwest France. Reinvented in Argentina. Malbec now thrives across our state’s varied landscapes¬– from Southern Oregon’s warm days and cool nights to the high desert edges of Snake River and the structured power of the Walla Walla Valley. It is a grape shaped by migration, adaptation and rhythm. Each spring in Portland, Malbec’s tempo becomes tangible. Striding into its fourth year, Malbec in the City has become one of Oregon’s most distinct wine gatherings. Founded by Argentine-born Juan Pablo Valot, known as JP, co-owner and winemaker of Valcan Cellars, the event places Malbec at center stage. And it does so with unapologetic energy. This is not a quiet, fussy tasting. Picture downtown energy meeting vineyard intention. Bold reds poured alongside live tango. Think structure, spice, dark fruit and music moving through the body as it does the entire room. “Here in the U.S.,
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April’s Fool
By Michele Francisco, OWP editor High alcohol, over-extracted, heavily oaked wines. Blech. My delicate, refined Northwest-centric palate is especially sensitive to these characteristics. As someone who struggles to maintain a poker face, I began to worry as my trip to Napa approached. Would my disdain be apparent with every sip? After a recent snowstorm prevented my companion from joining me, I considered canceling my appointments. However, as a lifelong student of wine, curiosity got the best of me. What I discovered surprised me. An impressive transformation has occurred since my last visit to Napa Valley. Winegrowers and makers favor a more restrained style rather than the big, bold wines popularized by critic Robert Parker. I found wines with more elegance and nuance. It’s as if Napa has taken a page from Oregon’s winemaking book. I was pleasantly surprised by what I tasted. Between my winery appointments and other tasting opportunities during the Wine Writers’ Sy